Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Vibrant Harajuku and Meiji Jingu Shinto shrine in Tokyo

It was a huge crowd outside Harajuku station when we came out. The crowd was moving slowly but gently. The purpose of the visit was uncertain when we started from Higashi Ojima. I did a google search for ‘Places to see in Tokyo’. Some of the search results guided me to see Fuji mountain, Kamakura, Tokyo Tower, Shinjuku, Odaiba, Ueno Park and zoo, Ginza, Yokohama China town etc.

Even by repeating the searches in Yahoo and other search engines I got the same places in the search results. I was eager to get something different from general search engine recommendations. The same thing happened for the first few pages of search resuslts, when I changed the search keywords to ‘Must see places in Tokyo’, but this time I got a place ‘Harajuku’ in the list recommended by an American tourist who had visited this place on his trip to Tokyo.

That was the motivation to visit Harajuku today. We could see live animation characters outside the station, lesbians and some groups of gays. I am not sure whether this is the normal view of Harajuku station. There were groups of young Japanese girls and boys sitting on the nearby stone benches which seemed to me as a mere casual meeting.

I have been taking my brother to different places in Tokyo now a days on his short trip to Tokyo. We walked to the direction of the crowd. It helps many times in life when we move with the trend. There will be always something towards which the crowd goes. The psychology of the mass or crowd is also motivated by the determination of those who move on the front. When we turned left, right after the Harajuku Yamanote line station, we could see a forest, virtually more beautiful than the real forest and a historical style entrance.





Before entering, we could collect leaflets that described about the place and its importance. To our surprise, it was ‘Meiji Jingu’ which is a Shinto shrine. Shinto is Japan’s religion, which has no founder, no holy book and no concepts of traditional religions. Shinto is a way of Japanese living with high values respecting the nature and living things. The Shinto shrine which we visited accidently is dedicated to the souls of Japanese emperor ‘Meiji’ and his consort empress ‘Shoken’. It was interesting to know that their tomb is in Kyoto.

This forest was made by Japanese people by donating trees from different parts of Japan and from all over the world. It is now the history that there are 100,000 tress total in the forest and it was established on November 1920. The artificial forest in the middle of concrete forest looked more than the natural forest.

We could see a collection of rice wine barrels on the side of the path towards the shrine. The visitors were eager to take snaps of the traditional Japanese customs and architectures around the main shrine. In Shinto religion, divinity or diving spirit is known as ‘Kami’. Unlike Christian religion which talks about one spirit, Shinto religions has no limit in the number of divine spirits or Kami. There are unlimited number of kami. Kami can be observed in Nature, mythology or in human beings. It is said that from times unknown Japanese people have felt awe and gratitude towards such Kami (divine spirit) and have built shrines to such Kami.

This kind of belief is similar to the believes in Hindu religion, the most widely practiced religion in India. In fact in India, these divine spirits became Gods over a period of time and they also got one or several shrines according to their popularity.



We could see Japanese traditional style marriage being held inside the shrine premise. Many visitors were taking photographs of the ceremonies. Meiji Jingu Gardens or Gyoen was the part of Meiji Jingu Shrine that has been existing long before building the Meiji Jingu. Emperor Meiji designed this iris garden, small paths and fishing spot for Empress Shoken.


“Although we may feel Overworked and burdened,
Our human hearts should go on remaining filled with an open calmness” is the Waka poetry written by Empress Shoken. The wisdom of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken were handed over to the generations next through these Waka poems. Visitors can draw a poem from 30 selected poems from the ‘Omikuji’ box, which exists in front of the main shrine.

Now not exaggerated to say, our visit to Harajuku was really worth. It took us to a different world in the middle of modern Tokyo. I can strongly recommend now to visit Meiji Jingu and Harajuku for those who plan a short visit to Tokyo along with their visit to Shinjuku. It is just two stations away from Shinjuku station on the JR Yamnote line. Harjuku is also a place for fashion and we can see many live animated models walking on the road! Have a nice trip to Harajuku!

Monday, September 14, 2009

Onam festival celebrations in Japan

Onam, the festival of flowers and colors being celebrated for centuries in Kerala, one of the states in the southern part of India, brings nostalgic feelings to all expatriate Keralites. Onam comes in the last of week of August or first week of September every year.

Being an Indian descended from Kerala, I was also passing through with a nostalgic past memoires during the first week of September, far away from the motherland. Hundred thousands of literature and online content will be available about Onam and its mythical and historical reasons and hence there is no point to narrate those stories here once again.

Being the common festival without having any particular religious blemishes, Onam festival days present great opportunity to recall the golden past years of Kerala and its people under the rule of a mighty king Mahabali.

This year we had the rare opportunity to attend the Onam celebrations organized by Nihon Kairali, the Japan Kerala community at Yokohama on 5th and 6th September. It was two exciting days for us with family to enjoy at the Nishi center in Yokohama, 10 minutes walk from the Yokohama station.

This time the festival was named as Kerala festival 2009. This year’s Kerala festival was organized by Nihon Kairali in co-ordination with GRIP Kerala and Kerala Travels Interserve Ltd. Due to my own physical limitations, I could not actively involve in any of the organizing activities of Nihon Kairali during the rehearsal time. During one of the rehearsal days I could meet one of the prominent figures among the Indian expatriates in Japan, Mr. Suresh lal.

Suresh lal, an Indian by birth is a permanent resident of Japan is also president of Nihon Kairali. He is an influential personality possessing great organizing skills. The number of families from Kerala living in Japan is approximately 500. It is a tough job to unite all the families to meet and exchange cultural activities that also to dimension of a big festival like the one we witnessed on 5th and 6th September.

On 5th September, we were lucky to see the Mizhavu melam presented by Abhinaya Labo, which is a group of researchers and performers based in Tokyo. They organize events and performances of the traditional arts of South India. A group of dedicated Japanese artists who have immense knowledge and interest in Indian performing arts undertake vast research and training in classical Sanskrit theatre, Kutiyattam and Nangiar Koothu, a female solo dance of Kerala.

Mizhavu melam performed by Abhinaya Labo virtually took every one of the audience to a level of ecstasy. The stunning performance of Mizhavu and Edaykka, the two traditional instruments used in the classical performances in Kerala, forced the audience to stand up at the end and respect the performers. Mizhavu is a kind of drum, which is used in the Kutiyattam dance. A large pot with the mouth tightly covered with leather, when beaten with hands sounds in the air with its harmonic overtones. Edaykka is an instrument used in Hindu temples in Kerala while performer sings the devotional songs. It can be compared with the Tsuzumi drum in Japan with the difference that the Edaykka is played with drum stick.

Two days went fast with a feast of cultural events and classical dance performers from Regatta, a professional dance troupe from Kerala. Really exciting two days far away from the land of flora and fauna, but with all the vigor and thrill of Kerala’s own festival Onam! Thanks to the Nihon Kairali, especially to Suresh lal.

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